Ambalangoda
Sri Lanka is well known and famous for its
beaches. On the west and southern coast along
the Colombo - Matara highway visitors are sure
to feast their eyes on small remote towns and
villages bursting with natural beauty close
to the ocean. These places have been developed
over the years especially with the tourist in
mind, which means that on ended not search for
accommodation and restaurants and what more
could also enjoy many activities apart from
lazing on the beach. Situated 87 km from the
capital of the island Colombo, is the small
amazing town of Ambalangoda, a coastal town
located along the coastal ride towards Galle,
where you will see fearsome looking masks on
display at establishments lining the road. A
town famous for the carving of masks used in
exorcism ceremonies and several forms of dance-drama
by the local cultures of the country Ambalangoda
could be reached by train in 3hours and 2 to
21/2 half hours by bus or hired transport. It
is very weird yet wonderful, to find a town
almost in the middle of this tourist development,
which is exceedingly low-key, un-exposed and
under-developed but famous for mask-carving
– that is the town of Ambalangoda.
Ambalangoda unlike the other coastal areas does
not posses the beauty nor the surfing waves
or the vibrant beach water activities or the
fine white sandy beaches but rather is a suitable
location of adventure and discovery rather than
relaxation and luxury. It is a town with a long
stretch of wild beach you can explore all to
yourself, whilst giving you a feeling of seclusion
hard to find on this coast. The large, bustling
market town of Ambalangoda with stalls sells
anything from fresh fish to fruit and vegetables
is filled with vendors selling sweet meats with
a buzz in the air. The busy bus station surrounding
the shops dominates the centre of town with
the train station just slightly inland. People
move about among the market stalls that spill
onto the road.
The sandy beaches of Ambalangoda is a good distance
from the main road and is packed with colorful
catamarans and fishing boats which clearly represents
the main livelihood of its residents. So take
care before you are lured by the sandy beach
for sunbathing for it is neither clean nor suitable
for lie down. Instead it is great for exploring
and witnessing Sri Lankan daily life. Both beaches
at the extreme southern and northern ends of
town are the most scenic, great for walking
and nearly always empty, so you can have a peaceful
long stroll, but always follow the attention
boards with advices on where to swim as there
can be dangerous currents. Masks prepared at
Ambalangoda are made for three different types
of dancing rituals: the first Kolam, which tell
satirical stories of traditional Sri Lankan
colonial life, the other is Sanni, or devil
dancing masks, used in a type of exorcism ceremony
to heal people of persisting ailments believed
inflicted by demons, and the last Raksha masks,
which are used in festivals and processions.
The premier craftsman who bought fame and recognition
to the town of Ambalangoda is Ariyapala Wijesuriya
who has now been succeeded by his two sons who
own two historical museums 800mtrs from the
town exhibiting various skillful creations of
the family and their father and also one could
enjoy the skillful making of the masks at their
own workshops as well.. The Ariyapala and Sons
Mask Museum is good visually and informatively
since it displays explanations in both Sinhala
and English around the connected rooms, which
are filled with masks, costumes, photos and
models. The Ariyapala Traditional Masks across
the road is less interesting and smaller, though
it does display some puppets. Both have workshops
where you can see the masks being made, as well
as large shops. What more you could also watch
as the resident damsels practice and rehearse
or even learn quick few steps of Kolam, a south
Indian traditional dance if you drop by the
Bandu Wijeysuriya School of Dance at 3pm. Ambalangoda
is also known for hand-woven cotton, finely
carved wooden doors, and screens and lintels.
However you can find these after some exploration
of the town or could seek the warm help of a
resident as well.
There are many an interesting expedition that
lures the visitors away from the beach and the
hum buzz of the town. The 35m long sleeping
Buddha located at the Galgoda Sailatalaramaya
Maha Vihara 7 km away from the town in the north
is South Asia’s longest sleeping Buddha.
It is encased within a concrete building, decorated
on the inside, along with some other colourful
statues which could be reached by the temple
road or if you do not mind a walk up the hill
and ready to give those lethargic legs some
exercise you can climb the208 stone carved steps
to reach the top. The views from the temple
are beautiful, stretching to the far away mountains.
At Balapitiya, five kilometers north of Ambalangoda,
lies the Madu Ganga wetlands a coastal eco system
that homes 303 types of flora and nearly 258
types of fauna including many bird species.
There are around 65 little islands that you
will pass on your float upstream, inhabitants
of which produce peeled cinnamon and cinnamon
oil. One of these islands houses a 150 old Buddhist
temple named Kodawa Vihara with 5 resident monks
spend their time on mediation. Boat trips could
be arranged through the Madu Boat Service or
from your the hotel of stay.
Ambalangoda doesn’t own many guesthouses
or restaurants. The character filled Rest House,
once a Dutch warehouse, is situated 200m from
the bus station and the large rooms with basic
amenities have great sea views. You could accommodation
ranging from an affordable stay with view of
the town or the sea to a nice cozy luxury rest
at a five star resort few kilometers from the
town.
Ambalangoda is not a town to miss when visits
the great luxurious sandy beaches down south.
Do stop in spend a day in this charming town
and enjoy the adventures it has to offer.
